DNA Powder Paint
Quick and Easy Instructions
Heat the jig by holding it 1 inch above a non-smoking candle flame roughly 5 seconds per 1/8 oz. of jig weight. Place the warm jig into the powder, move it around quickly, remove it, and tap off any excess powder. You should see the paint melt, after the excess has been tapped off, if you are close to the right heat. Always try to work on the cool side, as it is easy to add a little more heat to melt the paint, rather than having too much paint on the jig to start with. Wait a few seconds for the jig to cool before allowing it to touch anything, the paint hardens quickly.
Other heat sources such as an electric paint stripper gun or electric frying pan work great if you are painting or pre-heating larger quantities of jigs and spoons.
Make two-tone jigs by picking up a small quantity of the second color on the tip of a small paint brush, and gently tapping it so the powder falls onto the warm surface of your freshly painted jig, Several layers of color can be added if you keep the jig heated enough to melt each successive coat.
Needle nose vise grip pliers are excellent for holding your jigs and spoons while painting, they make cleaning hook eyes easy.
Hook eyes should be cleaned out while the jig is still warm. Simply push the T-Pin through the hook eye, and grasp the excess paint between your fingertips. Then pull the T-Pin back out of the hook eye. This saves time out fishing!
Eyeballs can be placed on the warm jigs with a straw that is firmly packed with powder. If the paint on the jig head sticks to the straw, it needs to cool a bit more. Try to hold the straw close to the working end, and touch it gently to the jig from a horizontal position. (Double eye, two straw sizes)
Head cement (worm blower) bottles work great for applying stripes to jigs and for quickly coating spoons and spinner blades. Simply fill them with your favorite color and gently squeeze them in a vertical position as you move it over the pre-warmed object. A plastic container below your work will collect any excess powder for reuse. Remove old paint from jigs and spoons by soaking them in lacquer thinner. Repaint as above, or dust with brush, then two-tone through paper patterns onto cooled spoons, and reheat to melt the paint.
Texturing spoons and spinner blades is done by placing tulle netting (available at fabric stores) over the still warm spoon, then applying a generous amount of glitter coat and smoothing it with a brush, and removing the tulle. The spoon is then reheated to melt the glitter coat. If baking textured spoons reduce the heat to 225F so the texture doesn't smooth itself out. If you try to texture the spoon when it is too hot, the tulle may stick to the paint. This is most easily done if you have help holding the tulle while you apply the glitter coat.
For extra durability your finished products should be baked! Hang and space jigs on the top oven rack and bake at 125C / 250F for 25-30 minutes. Our product develops it maximum strength in the last five minutes of the curing cycle undercured jig paint may be brittle. Spoons and spinner blades should either be hung from small pieces of wire or laid on tinfoil [paint up] if only one side has been painted. If you have a lot of paint on your first ones, be sure to place a piece of tin foil under them in case they drip.
ALL THE COLOR COMBINATIONS YOU WANT ARE NOW SO EASY TO CREATE !
SHAKE WELL BEFORE USING!
The eraser of a pencil may be cut out to form any design you wish and acts as a stamp for applying eyes, gill slits, scales or other details to a warm jig. It helps to darken the end of the eraser with felt pen before cutting away portions to leave the design you desire. We have completed several eye sizes and moon shapes for gill slits and scales. A slight buffing of the end, once you have your shapes created gets rid of the hard crust on the eraser end and it picks the paint up easier. It is easy to hold the pencil steady and place the stamp where you want. Reheating the jig may be necessary to have the powder adhere to the previous coat.